;

If the words foie gras, pommes frites and bouillabaisse roll off the average American’s tongue, it is in large part due to two chefs and personalities that have shaped the American culinary scene more than any other: Jacques Pepin and Julia Child.


Pepin and Child are unquestionably the Jagger and Richards of the American palate. They skillfully executed and championed the French style of cooking that shaped the second half of the gastronomic 20th century. As a result, French cuisine — more than any other — was the standard bearer for menus and culinary schools alike. Starting as “la grand cuisine,” expanding into the nouvelle cuisine of the 1970s, we now have the bistro, its cousin the brasserie and their well-dressed fashionista aunt, haute cuisine, at the top of the heap.

As our country rounded the corner of Europe’s second great war, leisure became lifestyle and a burgeoning middle class took hold, French cuisine captivated our palettes and our best talents. The French edict “faites simple” or “keep it simple” grabbed Americans’ aesthetic sense and appetites, with a premium on ingredients executed simply. Chefs and critics alike have noted for decades, “French cuisine is the most elegant comfort food one can find.”

This “Wisconsin Foodie” episode is full of exceptional meetings. The kind you tell people about years later. The kind people travel and invest in just to have.

We began with a private invitation-only lunch in the Bacchus skylight room as Master Chef Jacques Pepin was hosted by some 30 of Wisconsin’s finest chefs. Pepin’s recipe for veal roast with shitake mushrooms in a tarragon cream from his latest cookbook was prepared. The balance of the flavors was perfectly-poised, the hometown favorite Strauss veal tender, with the tarragon crème augmenting the dish more like a good perfume finishes off a perfect dress, and the shitakes acting as the punctuation for a well put remark.

Our own French cooking treasure and recent James Beard award-winner Adam Siegel expertly prepared the lunch. Also, I had one of those great insider foodie moments when I heard Pepin remark that the aspic at lunch was perfect. When I relayed this back to the sous-chef, he first broke into what could only be described as a massive smile, then turned his tightly closed eyes toward heaven and whispered “yes.”

Exceptional lunch number two came at the coveted kitchen table at Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro with namesake Joe Bartolotta. Siegel again cooked for us, which was amazing and then some.

But as a foodie, to be able to share a meal and have a wide-open conversation about the how, why and where Joe came from and what approach he takes to the art of the restaurant, was a true honor. Joe is perfect combination of convivial, warm and specific about his passions. To have given so much to the cuisine culture for our state, added so many opportunities for burgeoning and well-vetted foodies, all in tandem with a two-star Michelin-trained brother; he struck the perfect balance that day at lunch.

The history of Wisconsin’s distinctive hold on French cuisine of course flows through Madame Kuony, her honorary kitchen in the Milwaukee Public Market and her many devoted students and restaurant guests. In that spirit, we would have been remiss to not begin the episode from what is now one of our state’s best French resources, Lake Park Bistro.

Most often when we shoot, near the end of the day, I don’t want to leave because I am enjoying it all too much — the chefs, the farmers and the foodies. Being around people who do what they do simply because they love it — and would not know what else they would do if given the opportunity — has is owns reward of a very poignant kind. After for this episode, I could stay French forever.

Kyle Cherek

More Articles

WF-606-Hops1

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: New Glarus Oktoberfest & Company Brewing

S08 E06 – In this episode, we join George Bregar at Company Brewing as he makes a pale ale with fresh, locally sourced hops. Then we celebrate Oktoberfest with Deb and Dan Carey of New Glarus Brewing.

by: Arthur Ircink

10568892_10152718581033690_2629754367554472243_n (1)

Join our Spring/Summer Cheese Tours!

Wisconsin Foodie is organizing Cheesemaker tours this Spring/Summer and we’d like you to join us.

by: Arthur Ircink

Driftless1

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Driftless Organics, Viroqua Food Co-Op, & Rooted Spoon

S08 E05 – This week we tour the driftless region and visit Driftless Organics, Viroqua Food Co-Op, and Rooted Spoon.

by: Arthur Ircink

WF8-608_v4 01013817

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Gordon Edgar Cheddar Tour | Hook’s 20 Year Dinner

S08 E04 – In this episode, we tour Henning’s and Widmer’s cheese with Gordon Edgar, and then we enjoy a dinner at L’Etoile to celebrate Hook’s 20 Year Cheddar.

by: Arthur Ircink

HoneyValley1

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Honey Valley Beekeeping & Michael Fields Agricultural Institute

S08 E02 – In this episode of Wisconsin Foodie, Dan O’ Leary shares his beekeeping knowledge at Honey Valley Beekeeping. Kyle Cherek tours Michael Fields Agricultural Institute and enjoys an on-site dinner.

by: Arthur Ircink

WF8-StateFair_v1 02194116

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Wisconsin State Fair

S08 E01 – In this episode of Wisconsin Foodie, Kyle Cherek and Jessica Bell explores the fine culinary delicacies of the Wisconsin State Fair.

by: Arthur Ircink

Schreiner's 01

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Schreiner’s Restaurant & Bay View Packing Company

On the season finale of Wisconsin Foodie, we visit Schreiner’s Restaurant, Bay View Packing company, and close it out with Wolski’s.

by: Arthur Ircink

Deer Butchery 01

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: DEER HUNT

It’s deer season this week on Wisconsin Foodie! Keith Warnke from the Department of Natural Resources guides us as well as Kyle through the Wisconsin tradition of hunting.

by: Arthur Ircink

Roelli01

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE: Roelli Cheese & Driftless Café

This week, we eat some of Roelli Cheese’s award winning cheese and make some incredible dishes with it at Driftless Café.

by: Arthur Ircink

Amaranth01

THIS WEEK ON FOODIE : Amaranth Bakery & Madison Sourdough Company

This week, we load on the carbs with Amaranth Bakery and Madison Sourdough Company.

by: Arthur Ircink

WMMB - Rotational AD
Outpost Natural Foods Co-op v2
Our Media Partners

Copyright © 2012 Wisconsin Foodie. All rights reserved.

Use of this Site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Wisconsin Foodie